QUALITY CONTROL PROCEDURE

Introduction:
The purpose of M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s quality SOP is to provide you, as a M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s partnership factories, with support, guidelines and requirements in order to reach and sustain a good quality level in your product. This is of utmost importance in order to become a major business partner of M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s.

M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s intention is to work with partners factories that are self- reliant in terms of quality control. They should be able and willing to implement and follow- up relevant procedures to secure that all goods delivered to customer are up to Customer / M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s standard quality level.

M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s aim is to build long term co-operation and trust with partners factories who share our ambition to improve the quality and to cut down unnecessary cost and time by being effective and efficient.

Goal:
⦁ Our goal is to be largest suits/ formal ware Exporter’s in south east Asia with provide high quality product to meet customer exception.
⦁ Improve productivity with acceptable quality level through continuously improvement.
⦁ The responsibility of quality is share by all the partners factories staff and management and is accepted as an essential part of every day work.

 

⦁ Sample procedure: Sample are for different purpose through the process. From product development and building of collection to shop display and press activities.
It is factory / supplier responsibility to assess samples regarding style/ design during sample stage to make sure they are suitable for bulk production. Sample must be produced with same/ similar machinery as the coming bulk production.
The production can only start after Red seal sample / PP sample is approved.

⦁ Early Risk Assessment: Factory / M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s r will do risk assessment of every new product at early stage and cooperation between sample room, merchandising, QA, and production is extremely important. The production team should be involved at development time.

 

⦁ Gold seal sample: A gold seal sample must be picked by M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s QC or factory nominate GPQ from the actual production line and therefore represent the finished product.

This should be done when the first good are totally complete. All labels, price tags, etc. must be attached. Retail packaging must be the same as for the final delivery.

⦁ Lighting: Lighting requirement depends mainly on three factors:
⦁ The work that will be perform e.g. inspection, sewing, and warehouse.
⦁ Working area environment e. g. natural light, color of walls, and ceiling and background.
⦁ Sharpness of the operator’s eyesight.

Recommended Lux- values:
Department Minimum Lux-value
All kinds inspection area. 1000
Cutting/ sewing/ trimming area 750
Ironing/ finishing/ Packing area 500
Ware house: fabric, Trims, Finish product 250

⦁ Fabric Inspection:
The fabric supplier must inspect the fabric prior to delivery and the inspection report must accompany the delivery.
Factory must inspect the fabric prior to cutting. Both inspection report must be kept for 6 months.

5.1.1 Fabric Technical Data: Fabric supplier provide FTD since the fabric development stage for fabric quality and its technical performance. Information is filled in on fabric technical data.

5.1.2 Approve Fabric: Factory During Visual fabric inspection a swatch of the approved fabric must be available in all color. The approval must be come from Suits maker and exporter’s merchandiser/ Buyer. Fabric face side must be mark. Minimum size of swatch is 15”x15” or A4 size for better understanding.

5.1.3 Fabric Roll must be kept bellow information:
⦁ Fabric Description.
⦁ Fabric composition.
⦁ Color number.
⦁ Fabric roll Length.
⦁ Fabric roll cuttable width.
⦁ Fabric roll number.

⦁ Fabric quantity to be inspected:
⦁ Factory require a visual fabric inspection of 10% of the bulk fabric. The fabric rolls selected for inspection must represent all colors and lots within a color. If the average defect point exceeds the acceptable points an additional 15% must be inspected. If fabric fail again the 100% rolls must be inspected or rejected and inform to M&M Suits Maker and exporters merchandiser.

⦁ The fabric inspection must either be alternated between 2 people every 2 hours, break scheduled every 2nd hours, in order to make a proper judgement and to avoid fatigue.

⦁ Fabric inspection report must state:
⦁ Date.
⦁ Fabric supplier name.
⦁ Fabric description.

⦁ Color.
⦁ Cuttable width.
⦁ Fabric length according to roll ticket.
⦁ Fabric inspected length found.
⦁ Color shade.
⦁ Bowing / Skewing
⦁ Roll point
⦁ Inspection pass or Fail.
⦁ Roll shade.
⦁ Remark.

5.2. Equipment:
5.2.1 Fabric Inspection machine: Inspection should be carried out using a fabric inspection machine with:
i) Variable speed control, speed should not exceed 20m/minute.
ii) Meter / Yardage counter.
iii) Over feed capability (for inspecting stretch / spandex fabric.)
⦁ Ove head and transmitted lighting minimum 1000 lux.

 

5.2.2 Light Box: All color and shade must be check in a light box against the approved fabric swatch / approved standard.
The illuminants are TL -83 or TL-84, D-65, A- light, and UV light.

5.3. Shade / color continuity record: Color and shade must be controlled by maintaining color continuity record.
The fabric shade swatch must be a minimum 6”x6” and evaluated visually in a light box.
*** Use ISO 105-A02:1993 Grey scale for assessing change in color there should not be a greater different than 4-5 between any part within a roll.

5.3.1 Full with cutting: At the beginning and at the end each selected roll for fabric inspection, cut 30 cm /6” full width cutting for the look, hand feel and color must be compared in the light box against approved fabric swatch and fabric technical data.
Shade deviation within a roll must be check by folding or sewing:
⦁ Side to side
⦁ Side to center -side
⦁ Beginning to end.

5.4. Inspection Procedure: During fabric inspection bellow things are follow:
5.4.1 Weight: Check fabric weight against technical data. If the deviation is more than +/- 3% the roll has failed.

 

 

5.4.2 Cuttable width: The minimum cuttable width measured between needle hole at roll selvage, is stated on the fabric technical data, and must check 3 time on each roll.
i) Beginning.
ii) Middle.
Iii) End
5.4.3 Roll length verification: Roll length state on the roll ticket must be verification against the actual roll length measuring by the fabric checking machine.
5.4.4 Fabric odors: If fabric have any dour or bad smell Fabric has fail. Then inform signet responsible person.
5.4.5 Bowing: Bowing is the measure (A) of the bowing arc at the highest point of al line at right angles between the two selvages.

 

 

 

 

 

Skewing: Skewing is the measure (B) of the highest point between a weft threads / row and a line at right angles between the two selvages/fold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Skewing / Bowing 3% acceptable for solid fabric, and 2% for strip or Check fabric.

5.5. Four (4) point system: The 4-point system is named from a basic grading rule, regardless of length/ size or number of defects no more than 4 penalty point may be assigned on any linear meter / yards. Defect should be mark with a color sticker to show defect position.
5.5.1 Defect and Penalty point:
Defect Length Point Sticker Color
Less than 75mm/3” 1 White
75mm-149mm/3.1”-6” 2 Green
150mm-229mm/6.1”-9” 3 Yellow
Over 230mm/9” 4 Red
Any kinds of hole 4 Red

 

 

 

 

 

 

⦁ Trims: Trims includes threads, buttons, zippers, touch and close fastener (Velcro), stoppers, labels, hangtags, press buttons, lace, elastics, lapel pins etc.
⦁ Trim Inspection: Factory is required to perform an inspection of each trim immediately upon delivery.
⦁ Pick samples to inspected randomly according to AQL-2.5 or 10% quantity according to type of trim and risk.
⦁ Pre-Make sure all parts of trim do represent all colors.
⦁ Inspect general quality, functionality, size and grading, pre-shrink elastic, data sheet where needed.
⦁ Make visual color evaluation in light box against approved standard.

 

⦁ Trim card:
Trim card must be made from bulk fabric and accessories, made in correct colors with all trims and labels and keep in factory.

⦁ Labels procedure: Factory must have a system to ensure that correct label is used on each product for every style. Example of good practice:

⦁ The operator only keeps one size label at the same time.
⦁ Make sure all remaining labels or size labels are removed from the line after completed style or size.
⦁ Authorize person to issue, control, and handle labels.
⦁ Verify all labels with approved trim cards in beginning, inline, and end of line control.
⦁ Fabric and trim storage:
⦁ Goods must be storage on shelves or pallets.
⦁ Fabric / trim must be covered properly
⦁ Fabric must not be stacked too high.
⦁ Fabric / trim must be stored by style, color, order number.
⦁ Rejected fabric / trim must be clearly marked and keep separate from approved bulks lots.

⦁ Pull force test of button and other Attachment trims:
Factory must be performed pull test for Security of Attachment. The requirement is 90N.

⦁ Nickel Test: Factory must be performed nickel test for metal item. First a few drops of chemical the ammonia and dimethylglyoxime to a cotton bar and rub 30 sec.
If the cotton bar turns pink it should be reported as “+ “(= NOT OK).
If the cotton bar does not turn pink it should be reported as “– “(= OK).

7 Fabric relaxation for elastance or Spandex fabric.: Fabric must be relaxation or unroll and flat folded before cutting. Base on fabric elastance it must be relaxation 12 hour to 72 hours.

 

⦁ Spreading and cutting:

⦁ All parts in one garments and same quality. Must be cut from same roll and Keep approved swatch during fabric lay.
⦁ Fabric direction e.g. cord, velvet, print all parts in one garment must be cut the same direction. If there is no other agreement.
⦁ Pattern pieces must not be damage or overlapping when marker is drawn.
⦁ All pattern pieces on marker must be place correct on grain line.
⦁ Pin will not be use when attaching the marker onto the fabric.
⦁ Ply height must be suitable according to the fabric height. Ply height not exceed mot the 4”.
⦁ For size conformation cut panels from top layer, middle layer, and bottom layer must be check by hard patter. And keep record.
⦁ For replace defective part during production remnants fabric must be saved and mark with roll and shade number.

⦁ . Production: In every production area the emphasis must be to foresee potential problem and take preventive action. If problem occurs:
⦁ Identity the problem.
⦁ Find the source.
⦁ Stop the process.
⦁ Solve the problem.
⦁ Prevent it from recurring.
To keep a consistent quality level Signet enterprise recommends the factory to produce continuously, If possible in the same line and by the same operator.
⦁ Preproduction Meeting: Before bulk production start factory conduct a pre-production meeting. and discuss how to produce the goods with a consistent quality. This is to identify the number/ types of machine and folder are going to be required. The factory is required to:
⦁ Gather responsible managers (sample, cutting, sewing, finishing, and technicians)
⦁ Have a risk assessment regarding machinery, materials, trim, pattern, folder, and changes etc.
⦁ Go through fit, technical solutions and all details on the product and keep a record from the meeting.
⦁ Inform the result from meeting to all concerned production units.

⦁ Size set make / Trial production:

⦁ The factory is required to do make size set / Trial production before start bulk production.
⦁ Make 2 pcs in every size covering all color for analysis.
⦁ Have an inspection of the first finished garments, where the production manager, quality manager, technical manager and responsible GPQ are involve. Keep a record from the inspection.
⦁ Adjust before bulk cutting start.
⦁ Process Control:
⦁ M&M suits Maker and Exporter’s require the factory to have an efficient process control system in all production processes.
⦁ Have enough knowledge and information to identify source of the eventual weak point.
⦁ Use the knowledge to take necessary action, inform, and educate the personnel and cooperation with supervisors.
⦁ M&M suits Maker and Exporter’s is advising to use traffic light system or 7/0 system for better process control.

⦁ Stitching: Signet Enterprise recommends the factory to work with a line system. This is to maintain a continuous quality level throughout the production and increase the capacity. Factory is required to:
⦁ Have quality controller (QC’S) working on the production floor, both inline and end of line.
⦁ Have super visor and process controller ambulating the production floor.
⦁ Have a team consisting of QC’s supervisors and process controller who must work together, have an open communication, have the goal to maintain a high and even quality level during the whole production.

⦁ Needle and sharp tools control: Factory are required to:

⦁ Make sure operator doesn’t move until assistance arrive and that all parts of a broken needle are found and taped into a record.
⦁ Make sure scissors and others sharp tools are secured to the work station, with a chain or ribbon.
⦁ Maintain daily basis register issue and received record.

⦁ Finishing: A careful finish is extremely important for the total impression of the product.
⦁ Trimming: Final trimming must be done in the finishing area before packing. If not already made in the production line. All trimmed loose threads must be permanently removed by sucker.

⦁ Button policy: Factory make sure all buttons excepts spare button are sewn with lock stitch machine. The stitch should be 18-20.
On each start / stop or new start of button a mock-up made 2 buttons to control that adjustments of the machine, needle, and threads quality is correct. Supervisor and process controller are ambulating the floor to control in the process and keep record.

10.3 Pressing / Ironing: Factory must make sure the pressing tools are use in proper way. Like adjusted the pressing machine pressure bar, heat temperature or stream %, and machine pressing time as per base on fabric composition. Avoid the shine mark or impression mark. Iron / press machine cover are change regularly.

11. Fusing Best practices:

11.1 Fusing report: Most interlining companies will provide a report detailing the optimum fusing condition for any given fabric. This service is free of charge and is usually available within 3 days of the request. Garments factories should have fusing reports for every fabric they use and should request every new bulk production. These reports will cover the following:
⦁ Fusing conditions

⦁ Temperature: Glue – Line temperature is the temperature between the interlining adhesive and the fabric during the fusing process.
⦁ Fusing / Dwell time: Is the amount of time the fusing sample is exposed to the heat during the fusing.
⦁ Pressure: Roller / Belt pressure is the pressure exerted to the fabric and interlining during the fusing process.

⦁ Bond Strength: Bond strength is the force needed to separate the fused interlining from the shell fabric.
⦁ Surface Appearance: The fuse fabric is visually inspected in good lighting condition. The surface should remain smooth and even.
⦁ Dimensional Change: Sample ate measure before and after fusing to asses If there is any shrinkage or growth.

11.2 Fusing Machine Calibration: Fusing machine must be calibrated twice daily for Temperature, Fusing / Dwell time, Pressure Evenness. At lest two people in the garment factory should be trained to calibrate the fusing machine. The machine calibration record should be filled in twice daily and record stored with machine.
i) To test the Temperature: Set the fusing machine to the conditions recommended in the fusing interlining suppliers report. Allow 20-30 minutes for the machine to heat up and stabilize, then place 3 temperature strips across the width of the machine, (Left, Center, and right). Read the temperature from the strips once they have gone through the machine.

ii) To test for Fusing / Dwell Time: Set the time as recommended in the fusing report. Check the fusing / dwell time by using an accurate stop watch to time a non-adhesive fabric swatch going through the machine. Start timing when the fabric enters the heating cabinet / zone.
⦁ To Test for Pressure Evenness: Do the bond strength test on the 3 positions across the machine Left, Center, and Right at the same time. Put Carbone paper on the white paper Then give the machine.
12. Needle Detection: Before packing garments, all garments should pass by needle detector machine. After detection the goods must be keep in a metal free zone.
Before start pass garments by needle detector machine. Machine must be calibration by ferrous card in 9-point system.

13. Moisture /Mould Prevention: It is very important that the factory prevent the product from mould/ moisture.

14. inspection: All orders must be inspected and tested records are required to be keep from each major stage of production. The inspection area needs to provide a table in a suitable size for the product. A light source minimum 1000 Lux. Inspection to be perform:
i) Inline inspection: Factory must be performed inline inspection. Keep record defect % and defective %.
ii) End line inspection: Factory must be performed end line inspection. To ensure all that all produce goods are correct, style, quality, measurement and all kinds of labeling position. Doing measurement minimum 2 time in every day and keep record.
⦁ Finishing / Pressing inspection: Factory must be performed finishing inspection. Overall workmanship, pressing, appearance, measurement. Keep record defect % and finishing return.
⦁ Pre- final inspection: Factory must be doing pre-final inspection before offer pre-final inspection to M&M Suits Maker and Exporters. If factory pre-final inspection is pass then offer to M&M Suits Maker and Exporters for pre-final inspection.

 

 

 

 

Introduction:
The purpose of M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s quality SOP is to provide you, as a M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s partnership factories, with support, guidelines and requirements in order to reach and sustain a good quality level in your product. This is of utmost importance in order to become a major business partner of M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s.

M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s intention is to work with partners factories that are self- reliant in terms of quality control. They should be able and willing to implement and follow- up relevant procedures to secure that all goods delivered to customer are up to Customer / M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s standard quality level.

M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s aim is to build long term co-operation and trust with partners factories who share our ambition to improve the quality and to cut down unnecessary cost and time by being effective and efficient.

Goal:
⦁ Our goal is to be largest suits/ formal ware Exporter’s in south east Asia with provide high quality product to meet customer exception.
⦁ Improve productivity with acceptable quality level through continuously improvement.
⦁ The responsibility of quality is share by all the partners factories staff and management and is accepted as an essential part of every day work.

 

⦁ Sample procedure: Sample are for different purpose through the process. From product development and building of collection to shop display and press activities.
It is factory / supplier responsibility to assess samples regarding style/ design during sample stage to make sure they are suitable for bulk production. Sample must be produced with same/ similar machinery as the coming bulk production.
The production can only start after Red seal sample / PP sample is approved.

⦁ Early Risk Assessment: Factory / M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s r will do risk assessment of every new product at early stage and cooperation between sample room, merchandising, QA, and production is extremely important. The production team should be involved at development time.

⦁ Gold seal sample: A gold seal sample must be picked by M&M Suits maker and Exporter’s QC or factory nominate GPQ from the actual production line and therefore represent the finished product.
This should be done when the first good are totally complete. All labels, price tags, etc. must be attached. Retail packaging must be the same as for the final delivery.

⦁ Lighting: Lighting requirement depends mainly on three factors:
⦁ The work that will be perform e.g. inspection, sewing, and warehouse.
⦁ Working area environment e. g. natural light, color of walls, and ceiling and background.
⦁ Sharpness of the operator’s eyesight.
Recommended Lux- values:
Department Minimum Lux-value
All kinds inspection area. 1000
Cutting/ sewing/ trimming area 750
Ironing/ finishing/ Packing area 500
Ware house: fabric, Trims, Finish product 250

 

⦁ Fabric Inspection:
The fabric supplier must inspect the fabric prior to delivery and the inspection report must accompany the delivery.
Factory must inspect the fabric prior to cutting. Both inspection report must be kept for 6 months.

5.1.1 Fabric Technical Data: Fabric supplier provide FTD since the fabric development stage for fabric quality and its technical performance. Information is filled in on fabric technical data.

5.1.2 Approve Fabric: Factory During Visual fabric inspection a swatch of the approved fabric must be available in all color. The approval must be come from Suits maker and exporter’s merchandiser/ Buyer. Fabric face side must be mark. Minimum size of swatch is 15”x15” or A4 size for better understanding.

5.1.3 Fabric Roll must be kept bellow information:
⦁ Fabric Description.
⦁ Fabric composition.
⦁ Color number.
⦁ Fabric roll Length.
⦁ Fabric roll cuttable width.
⦁ Fabric roll number.

⦁ Fabric quantity to be inspected:
⦁ Factory require a visual fabric inspection of 10% of the bulk fabric. The fabric rolls selected for inspection must represent all colors and lots within a color. If the average defect point exceeds the acceptable points an additional 15% must be inspected. If fabric fail again the 100% rolls must be inspected or rejected and inform to M&M Suits Maker and exporters merchandiser.

⦁ The fabric inspection must either be alternated between 2 people every 2 hours, break scheduled every 2nd hours, in order to make a proper judgement and to avoid fatigue.

⦁ Fabric inspection report must state:
⦁ Date.
⦁ Fabric supplier name.
⦁ Fabric description.

⦁ Color.
⦁ Cuttable width.
⦁ Fabric length according to roll ticket.
⦁ Fabric inspected length found.
⦁ Color shade.
⦁ Bowing / Skewing
⦁ Roll point
⦁ Inspection pass or Fail.
⦁ Roll shade.
⦁ Remark.

5.2. Equipment:
5.2.1 Fabric Inspection machine: Inspection should be carried out using a fabric inspection machine with:
i) Variable speed control, speed should not exceed 20m/minute.
ii) Meter / Yardage counter.
iii) Over feed capability (for inspecting stretch / spandex fabric.)
⦁ Ove head and transmitted lighting minimum 1000 lux.

 

5.2.2 Light Box: All color and shade must be check in a light box against the approved fabric swatch / approved standard.
The illuminants are TL -83 or TL-84, D-65, A- light, and UV light.

5.3. Shade / color continuity record: Color and shade must be controlled by maintaining color continuity record.
The fabric shade swatch must be a minimum 6”x6” and evaluated visually in a light box.
*** Use ISO 105-A02:1993 Grey scale for assessing change in color there should not be a greater different than 4-5 between any part within a roll.

5.3.1 Full with cutting: At the beginning and at the end each selected roll for fabric inspection, cut 30 cm /6” full width cutting for the look, hand feel and color must be compared in the light box against approved fabric swatch and fabric technical data.
Shade deviation within a roll must be check by folding or sewing:
⦁ Side to side
⦁ Side to center -side
⦁ Beginning to end.

5.4. Inspection Procedure: During fabric inspection bellow things are follow:
5.4.1 Weight: Check fabric weight against technical data. If the deviation is more than +/- 3% the roll has failed.

 

 

5.4.2 Cuttable width: The minimum cuttable width measured between needle hole at roll selvage, is stated on the fabric technical data, and must check 3 time on each roll.
i) Beginning.
ii) Middle.
Iii) End
5.4.3 Roll length verification: Roll length state on the roll ticket must be verification against the actual roll length measuring by the fabric checking machine.
5.4.4 Fabric odors: If fabric have any dour or bad smell Fabric has fail. Then inform signet responsible person.
5.4.5 Bowing: Bowing is the measure (A) of the bowing arc at the highest point of al line at right angles between the two selvages.

 

 

 

 

 

Skewing: Skewing is the measure (B) of the highest point between a weft threads / row and a line at right angles between the two selvages/fold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Skewing / Bowing 3% acceptable for solid fabric, and 2% for strip or Check fabric.

5.5. Four (4) point system: The 4-point system is named from a basic grading rule, regardless of length/ size or number of defects no more than 4 penalty point may be assigned on any linear meter / yards. Defect should be mark with a color sticker to show defect position.
5.5.1 Defect and Penalty point:
Defect Length Point Sticker Color
Less than 75mm/3” 1 White
75mm-149mm/3.1”-6” 2 Green
150mm-229mm/6.1”-9” 3 Yellow
Over 230mm/9” 4 Red
Any kinds of hole 4 Red

 

 

 

 

 

 

⦁ Trims: Trims includes threads, buttons, zippers, touch and close fastener (Velcro), stoppers, labels, hangtags, press buttons, lace, elastics, lapel pins etc.
⦁ Trim Inspection: Factory is required to perform an inspection of each trim immediately upon delivery.
⦁ Pick samples to inspected randomly according to AQL-2.5 or 10% quantity according to type of trim and risk.
⦁ Pre-Make sure all parts of trim do represent all colors.
⦁ Inspect general quality, functionality, size and grading, pre-shrink elastic, data sheet where needed.
⦁ Make visual color evaluation in light box against approved standard.

 

⦁ Trim card:
Trim card must be made from bulk fabric and accessories, made in correct colors with all trims and labels and keep in factory.

⦁ Labels procedure: Factory must have a system to ensure that correct label is used on each product for every style. Example of good practice:

⦁ The operator only keeps one size label at the same time.
⦁ Make sure all remaining labels or size labels are removed from the line after completed style or size.
⦁ Authorize person to issue, control, and handle labels.
⦁ Verify all labels with approved trim cards in beginning, inline, and end of line control.
⦁ Fabric and trim storage:
⦁ Goods must be storage on shelves or pallets.
⦁ Fabric / trim must be covered properly
⦁ Fabric must not be stacked too high.
⦁ Fabric / trim must be stored by style, color, order number.
⦁ Rejected fabric / trim must be clearly marked and keep separate from approved bulks lots.

⦁ Pull force test of button and other Attachment trims:
Factory must be performed pull test for Security of Attachment. The requirement is 90N.

⦁ Nickel Test: Factory must be performed nickel test for metal item. First a few drops of chemical the ammonia and dimethylglyoxime to a cotton bar and rub 30 sec.
If the cotton bar turns pink it should be reported as “+ “(= NOT OK).
If the cotton bar does not turn pink it should be reported as “– “(= OK).

7 Fabric relaxation for elastance or Spandex fabric.: Fabric must be relaxation or unroll and flat folded before cutting. Base on fabric elastance it must be relaxation 12 hour to 72 hours.

 

⦁ Spreading and cutting:

⦁ All parts in one garments and same quality. Must be cut from same roll and Keep approved swatch during fabric lay.
⦁ Fabric direction e.g. cord, velvet, print all parts in one garment must be cut the same direction. If there is no other agreement.
⦁ Pattern pieces must not be damage or overlapping when marker is drawn.
⦁ All pattern pieces on marker must be place correct on grain line.
⦁ Pin will not be use when attaching the marker onto the fabric.
⦁ Ply height must be suitable according to the fabric height. Ply height not exceed mot the 4”.
⦁ For size conformation cut panels from top layer, middle layer, and bottom layer must be check by hard patter. And keep record.
⦁ For replace defective part during production remnants fabric must be saved and mark with roll and shade number.

⦁ . Production: In every production area the emphasis must be to foresee potential problem and take preventive action. If problem occurs:
⦁ Identity the problem.
⦁ Find the source.
⦁ Stop the process.
⦁ Solve the problem.
⦁ Prevent it from recurring.
To keep a consistent quality level Signet enterprise recommends the factory to produce continuously, If possible in the same line and by the same operator.
⦁ Preproduction Meeting: Before bulk production start factory conduct a pre-production meeting. and discuss how to produce the goods with a consistent quality. This is to identify the number/ types of machine and folder are going to be required. The factory is required to:
⦁ Gather responsible managers (sample, cutting, sewing, finishing, and technicians)
⦁ Have a risk assessment regarding machinery, materials, trim, pattern, folder, and changes etc.
⦁ Go through fit, technical solutions and all details on the product and keep a record from the meeting.
⦁ Inform the result from meeting to all concerned production units.

⦁ Size set make / Trial production:

⦁ The factory is required to do make size set / Trial production before start bulk production.
⦁ Make 2 pcs in every size covering all color for analysis.
⦁ Have an inspection of the first finished garments, where the production manager, quality manager, technical manager and responsible GPQ are involve. Keep a record from the inspection.
⦁ Adjust before bulk cutting start.
⦁ Process Control:
⦁ M&M suits Maker and Exporter’s require the factory to have an efficient process control system in all production processes.
⦁ Have enough knowledge and information to identify source of the eventual weak point.
⦁ Use the knowledge to take necessary action, inform, and educate the personnel and cooperation with supervisors.
⦁ M&M suits Maker and Exporter’s is advising to use traffic light system or 7/0 system for better process control.

⦁ Stitching: Signet Enterprise recommends the factory to work with a line system. This is to maintain a continuous quality level throughout the production and increase the capacity. Factory is required to:
⦁ Have quality controller (QC’S) working on the production floor, both inline and end of line.
⦁ Have super visor and process controller ambulating the production floor.
⦁ Have a team consisting of QC’s supervisors and process controller who must work together, have an open communication, have the goal to maintain a high and even quality level during the whole production.

⦁ Needle and sharp tools control: Factory are required to:

⦁ Make sure operator doesn’t move until assistance arrive and that all parts of a broken needle are found and taped into a record.
⦁ Make sure scissors and others sharp tools are secured to the work station, with a chain or ribbon.
⦁ Maintain daily basis register issue and received record.

⦁ Finishing: A careful finish is extremely important for the total impression of the product.
⦁ Trimming: Final trimming must be done in the finishing area before packing. If not already made in the production line. All trimmed loose threads must be permanently removed by sucker.

⦁ Button policy: Factory make sure all buttons excepts spare button are sewn with lock stitch machine. The stitch should be 18-20.
On each start / stop or new start of button a mock-up made 2 buttons to control that adjustments of the machine, needle, and threads quality is correct. Supervisor and process controller are ambulating the floor to control in the process and keep record.

10.3 Pressing / Ironing: Factory must make sure the pressing tools are use in proper way. Like adjusted the pressing machine pressure bar, heat temperature or stream %, and machine pressing time as per base on fabric composition. Avoid the shine mark or impression mark. Iron / press machine cover are change regularly.

11. Fusing Best practices:

11.1 Fusing report: Most interlining companies will provide a report detailing the optimum fusing condition for any given fabric. This service is free of charge and is usually available within 3 days of the request. Garments factories should have fusing reports for every fabric they use and should request every new bulk production. These reports will cover the following:
⦁ Fusing conditions

⦁ Temperature: Glue – Line temperature is the temperature between the interlining adhesive and the fabric during the fusing process.
⦁ Fusing / Dwell time: Is the amount of time the fusing sample is exposed to the heat during the fusing.
⦁ Pressure: Roller / Belt pressure is the pressure exerted to the fabric and interlining during the fusing process.

⦁ Bond Strength: Bond strength is the force needed to separate the fused interlining from the shell fabric.
⦁ Surface Appearance: The fuse fabric is visually inspected in good lighting condition. The surface should remain smooth and even.
⦁ Dimensional Change: Sample ate measure before and after fusing to asses If there is any shrinkage or growth.

11.2 Fusing Machine Calibration: Fusing machine must be calibrated twice daily for Temperature, Fusing / Dwell time, Pressure Evenness. At lest two people in the garment factory should be trained to calibrate the fusing machine. The machine calibration record should be filled in twice daily and record stored with machine.
i) To test the Temperature: Set the fusing machine to the conditions recommended in the fusing interlining suppliers report. Allow 20-30 minutes for the machine to heat up and stabilize, then place 3 temperature strips across the width of the machine, (Left, Center, and right). Read the temperature from the strips once they have gone through the machine.

ii) To test for Fusing / Dwell Time: Set the time as recommended in the fusing report. Check the fusing / dwell time by using an accurate stop watch to time a non-adhesive fabric swatch going through the machine. Start timing when the fabric enters the heating cabinet / zone.
⦁ To Test for Pressure Evenness: Do the bond strength test on the 3 positions across the machine Left, Center, and Right at the same time. Put Carbone paper on the white paper Then give the machine.
12. Needle Detection: Before packing garments, all garments should pass by needle detector machine. After detection the goods must be keep in a metal free zone.
Before start pass garments by needle detector machine. Machine must be calibration by ferrous card in 9-point system.

13. Moisture /Mould Prevention: It is very important that the factory prevent the product from mould/ moisture.

14. inspection: All orders must be inspected and tested records are required to be keep from each major stage of production. The inspection area needs to provide a table in a suitable size for the product. A light source minimum 1000 Lux. Inspection to be perform:
i) Inline inspection: Factory must be performed inline inspection. Keep record defect % and defective %.
ii) End line inspection: Factory must be performed end line inspection. To ensure all that all produce goods are correct, style, quality, measurement and all kinds of labeling position. Doing measurement minimum 2 time in every day and keep record.
⦁ Finishing / Pressing inspection: Factory must be performed finishing inspection. Overall workmanship, pressing, appearance, measurement. Keep record defect % and finishing return.
⦁ Pre- final inspection: Factory must be doing pre-final inspection before offer pre-final inspection to M&M Suits Maker and Exporters. If factory pre-final inspection is pass then offer to M&M Suits Maker and Exporters for pre-final inspection.